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This blog is about two climbers who are searching out the widest, dirtiest and hardest offwidths that this planet has to offer. The journeys, the training, the routes and the failures - no holds barred. It's not about the grade, it's about the experience and when it comes to The Wide the experience is the same for everyone!

Wide Boyz Blog

Friday, 2 December 2011

The Final Count and What's Next?

Now that we've finally settled back into the dampness of England and unpacked 42kg of size 6 Friends, it's time for some deep reflection, pondering and musing.........

Right, who needs a big friend? Going cheap.....

IS IT 'ECK!

Let's get the tick list out (for the geeks amongst us) and then work out what's next?

63 Days in the Wide Wilderness


Below is a list of what Pete and I climbed during our trip to the States, which includes some boulder problems (some of which were actually longer than other routes at Vedauwoo!). I've written it down in grade order, as making it chronological would require some level of organisation. I've left the original grades of the routes on, rather than the new suggested grades, for the sake of diplomacy.

(B) Denotes boulder problem - long or short and whether I felt like I would pass out or not...
(Sb) Denotes major sandbag - Scarpelli Style.

Oh God, not another list...

Century Crack                                                                    5.14b
Army of Darkness                                                               5.13d
Gabriel                                                                                5.13b
The Price of Evil                                                                  5.13b
Eight Ounces to Freedom (B)                                              5.13b
Simiantics (B)                                                                      5.13b
Angry Pirate Finish                                                              5.13a
Monsters Inc (B)                                                                 5.13a
Belly Full of Bad Berries                                                      5.13a
Lucille                                                                                 5.13a
Spatial Relations                                                                  5.13a
The Vag                                                                              5.13a
The Warden (B)                                                                  5.13a
Trench Warfare Extension                                                   5.13a
Witness The Wideness                                                        5.12d/5.13a
The Brad                                                                            5.12d/5.13a
Trench Warfare                                                                   5.12d
What the Big Boys Eat                                                        5.12c
On a Wing and a Prayer                                                      5.12c
New World Order (B)                                                         5.12c
World's Hardest (B)                                                            5.12b
Trip Master Monkey (Sb)                                                    5.12b
Squat                                                                                   5.12b
Brother from Another Planet                                                 5.12a/b
Big Baby                                                                              5.11b/c
Worm Drive (Sb)                                                                 5.11b
Big Pink (Sb)                                                                       5.11b
Torpedo Right (Sb)                                                              5.11a

There's probably a few I've forgotten there - and I'll have got a few of the grades wrong. It's all good though, because if anyone out there gets really psyched, all you need to do is print off this list, buy your self 7 pairs of shoes and 37metres of athletic tape!

What's Next?

That's the question that we asked ourselves many times over during the last 2 weeks of the trip. Mostly so far, it's been a mixture of doing interviews, magazine articles and preparing some lectures - which is all very normal and "back to reality." So..........................

It's time for some challenges again I think. Climbing Challenges. Nothing normal, nothing particularly sensible. Details coming up in the next blog post.

Wide Boyz Lecture? Roll up if you think you have problems. 

7 comments:

  1. bigwall climbing now. time to step up tom!

    ReplyDelete
  2. If you would, where would you place the momentUm gym lead crack on this list?

    Thnx Jaybro

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hey Jay
    I thought it was solid .12d, not sure what Tom thought.
    compared to routes which use a similar technique i thought it was harder then Trench but not as hard as Bellyful.
    complete indoor classic!! good luck
    Pete

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thnx Pete!
    Headed there shortly. Done the belly, done the trench, maybe this one will be "just right"!

    Jay

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi Jay, I agree with Pete. It's right in the middle of the 2 of them.

    Enjoy it!

    Tom

    ReplyDelete
  6. I'll take some of those big cams if you are selling them and can ship them back to the states.

    ReplyDelete
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